Honey Bee Removal Information


CONTACT A BEEKEEPER FROM OUR “BEE REMOVAL CONTACT LIST” to remove honey bees from your property safely and ethically.  This list is provided as a courtesy. Bee removal is NOT a service provided by the Outer Banks BeeKeepers’ Guild… and the Guild assume no responsibility or liability for any action, damages or distress. Bee removal service is provided by the individual beekeepers themselves.

Please keep children and pets away from the swarm and do not harm the bees by spraying with pesticides.

Please note the difference in swarm removal and removing bees from structures.


Honey bees often swarm in the spring and early summer when their population increases rapidly and conditions inside the hive become too crowded. Prior to swarming, the bees will gorge on honey to fuel their flight. Then the queen and half the bees will take off in search of new digs. But before the swarm makes it too far from the hive it will take up temporary residence on something nearby – a bush, a tree branch, a picnic table, a fence, etc. – clustered together with the queen inside. The cluster of bees will stay for a few hours up to a few days while scout bees search for a new home.

From the beekeeper’s perspective, swarming is considered something to avoid because it drastically reduces the number of bees available to make honey. Some beekeepers who aren’t as interested in harvesting honey but keep bees more for pollination services may view swarming as a helpful self-thinning event. But if the swarm leaves later in the year it can leave behind a colony too weak to make it through winter. Ideally beekeepers try to prevent swarms.

Some Useful Information About An Amazing Phenomenon
Extracted from an article by Marion Ellis, Extension Apiculture Specialist, University of Nebraska

What is a honey bee swarm?

Honey bee swarms are a favorite topic of people who make horror movies.swarm_in_air Actually, they are one of the most beautiful and interesting phenomena in nature. A swarm starting to issue is a thrilling  sight. A swarm may contain from 1,500 to 30,000 bees including, workers, drones, and a queen. Swarming is an instinctive part of the annual life cycle of a honeybee colony. It provides a mechanism for the colony to reproduce itself.

What makes a honey bee colony swarm?

Overcrowding and congestion in the nest are factors, which predispose colonies to swarm. The presence of an old queen and a mild winter also contribute to the development of the swarming impulse. Swarming can be controlled by a skilled beekeeper; however, not all colonies live in hives and have a human caretaker.

When do honey bees swarm?

The tendency to swarm is usually greatest when bees increase their population rapidly in late spring and early summer. In Southeast Virginia, this is from late March to early June.

Are honey beegentle_swarm swarms dangerous?

No – honey bees exhibit defensive behavior only in the vicinity of their nest. Defensive behavior is needed to protect  their young and food supply. A honey bee swarm has neither young nor food stores and will not exhibit defensive behavior unless unduly provoked.

What should homeowners do about a honey bee swarm on their property?

When honeybees swarm they will settle on a tree limb, bush, or other convenient site. The cohesiveness of the swarm is due to their attraction to a pheromone produced by the queen. The swarm will send out scout bees to seek a cavity to nest in and will move on when a suitable nesting site is found. Rarely, swarms may initiate comb construction in the open if a suitable cavity cannot be found. You may want to contact a local beekeeper to see if the beekeeper would like to collect the swarm. Be prepared to answer a few questions about the swarm:

    • What size is the swarm?  Swarms come in all sizes from baseball to basketball in diameter.honey_bee_swarm
    • Where is the swarm located?  Swarms settle on trees, bushes and objects such as mailboxes.  A nest underground is generally not honey bees, but rather yellowjackets.  Swarms inside a structure are often established hives which are much more difficult to remove and may require specialized equipment.
    • How high up is the swarm?  Give the beekeeper an honest estimate and indicate if the area is level enough for a ladder.
    • How long has the swarm been there?  Bees nesting in the open may not be honeybees.
    • Has anybody tampered with the swarm or sprayed pesticide on the swarm?  Beekeepers will not want swarms that have been sprayed.

swarm_captureHow does a beekeeper go about capturing a swarm of honeybees?

A swarm is looking for a new nesting site. A beekeeper can capture a swarm by placing a suitable container, such as an empty beehive, on the ground below the swarm and dislodging the bees at the entrance to the hive. The bees will begin to move into the hive, which can be removed after dark to the beekeeper’s apiary. You can observe the bees scent-fanning at the entrance to signal the entrance to the new nest as the bees march into their new home. If for some reason the queen does not go into the new hive, the bees will abandon it and form a cluster where she lands.

What type of nesting sites will honey bees seek?

Honey bees are cavity nesters and will seek a cavity of at least 15 liters of storage space. Hollow trees are preferred nesting sites. Occasionally, bees will nest in the hollow walls of buildings, under porches, and in other “man-made” sites if they can find an entrance to a suitable cavity.  You can prevent swarms from nesting in walls by preventive maintenance. Honey bees will not make an entrance to a nest. They look for an existing entrance, so periodic inspection and caulking is all that is necessary to prevent them from occupying spaces in walls

Why are we observing fewer swarms than in previous years?bee_swarm1

In the 1980’s, two mites that parasitize honeybees were introduced into the U.S. They have spread throughout the state and have eliminated many wild or feral colonies. In addition, the number of colonies managed by beekeepers has declined during the past decade. Farmers and gardeners producing tree fruits, small fruits, forage legumes, oil seed crops, and vegetable crops requiring bee pollination need to consider pollination requirements as once abundant honey bee pollinators are no longer something they can take for granted. Managed honeybee colonies may be needed to assure adequate pollination of these crops.

Please keep children and pets away from the swarm and do not harm the bees by spraying with pesticides.

Call a beekeeper from our list to help remove a swarm on your property.  We recommend that you continue down the list until you are able to make personal contact for prompt removal.  


You can prevent swarms from nesting in walls by preventive maintenance. Honey bees will not make an entrance. They look for an existing entrance, so periodic inspection and caulking is all that is necessary to prevent them from occupying spaces in walls.

Extracted from an article by Wm. Michael Hood, Extension Entomologist, Clemson University

If a property owner suspects that a honey bee colony has entered the wall of a structure, he/she should attempt to confirm the insects are indeed honey bees. Other possible insects that might invade the wall of structures are carpenter bees, yellow jackets or European hornets. Honey bees vary in color from yellow to black, have black or brown bands across the abdomen and are much smaller than a carpenter bee.honeybee2 Honey bees are about 2/3 inch long and covered with hairs or setae. The foraging honey bees have pollen baskets on each hind leg, which will often be loaded with a ball of yellow or dark green pollen. The honey bee is the only stinging insect that can normally overwinter as a colony inside the wall of a structure in Virginia.

The carpenter bee can be identified by having bright yellow, orange or white hairs on the thorax (chest region) and a black shiny abdomen on the dorsal side. Carpenter bees are robust, heavy-bodied bees that range from ¾ to 1 inch in length. These insects bore ½-inch diameter holes that appear to be perfectly round on exterior wooden surfaces.

The giant resin bee is a solitary Asian bee that has been introduced into theresin_bee southeastern United States.  These bees are large and quite impressive. They have a cylindrical body ranging from 1/2 to almost one inch (14 – 24 mm) in length, which is longer than most other bees in North America.  The head and abdomen of the giant resin bee are black. Dense yellowish-brown hairs cover its thorax.  They commonly nest in vacant carpenter bee tunnels but do not cause damage.


Yellow jackets lack the dense body hairs that are found on carpenter bees and honey bees. Yellow jackets do not have the pollen baskets on the hind legs. The yellow jacket is about ½ inch long, and the abdomen is characterized by having alternating yellow and black bands.  Large colonies of yellow jackets are often noticed nesting underground in autumn.

European hornets are much larger (1.5 inches long) than honey bees and sometimes establish colonies inside structural walls.  European hornets have a yellow face and yellow stripes with black markings at the end of their abdomens.


The bald-faced hornet is 1/2 to 5/8 in (1.25 to 1.6 cm) long. It is black with white markings on the face  Nests can be built on the eves of buildings, on windows, in attics or on other structures.

Honey bees are beneficial pollinators and should be left alone and appreciated unless their nest is in conflict with human activity.  Honey bees will do no structural damage to a building. Unlike other pests, such as termites or carpenter bees, honey bees do not chew or eat wood. If honeybees nest in the walls of a home, they can be removed with the assistance of a local beekeeper.

Do not attempt to plug the bees’ entrance.  If the entrance hole is blocked, the bees will look for another exit. They may find another crack or opening or they could follow light and enter your living quarters instead through gaps in baseboards, electrical outlets or vents. Simply injecting a pesticide in the wall to kill the bees is risky and will attract wax moths and mice.  The honey will attract ants and other insects and will ooze through the wall or ceiling when comb melts during hot weather.  A foul odor is to be expected for several weeks in the vicinity of the decaying bees.


Many beekeepers have specialized equipment, such as a bee vacuum, which allows them to collect the colony intact and relocate it to an apiary.  They will open the area and remove the honey and combs to prevent rodent and insect infestations which occur in abandoned nests.  Also, without bees to control the temperature, the wax will melt and honey drip from the combs through plaster and drywall.  After removal, the cavity should be filled with foam insulation, as the nest odor will be attractive to future swarms.

Exterior stucco, brick or cement walls make normal removal impossible, especially if interior wall accessibility is not an option. Trapping bees out of the wall with a “one-way bee escape removal” is recommended if a property owner is not in a hurry to have the colony removed. The process will take about two to three months, and sometimes it is not successful unless careful attention to detail is followed. The comb will remain in the wall and will attract another swarm in the future unless preventive measures are taken.

trap screenA cone-shaped one-way bee escape is constructed of window screen with the large end fastened over the primary bee entrance. It is imperative that all other cracks or holes leading to the bee colony be sealed off, or the efforts will be unsuccessful. A hive body with a new queen bee inside is placed on the platform with the entrance as close to the primary entrance as possible. Returning foraging bees will fly to the base of the cone-shaped bee escape and will be unable to reenter the wall. Eventually, the foraging bees will successfully gain entrance to the new hive. Periodic checks to make sure the bees have not gained entry into the wall are necessary. As the colony in the wall weakens, the colony in the hive body will strengthen at the expense of the parent colony. The queen in the parent colony will not normally abandon her brood, so a non-residual pesticide or carbon dioxide should be injected into the wall to kill her and the remaining bees. Make sure the fumigant used does not leave a toxic residue. After four to five days, the cone escape can be removed and the bees from the new hive will enter the wall and remove the remaining honey. As soon as bee entry into the wall ceases which should only take a few days, all possible entry sites must be sealed or plugged to prevent re-colonization by future swarms. Filling the void with an expanding foam type of insulation is highly recommended.

Unfortunately, this trapping procedure requires many visits to the site to finish the job. The comb left behind in the wall will be highly attractive to scout bees in the future, therefore the structure owner should make annual inspections of the wall and refill any cracks or holes leading to the cavity.

If you have honey bees swarming on your property, please don’t harm them!  Simply call a beekeeper who will come out and relocate them to a new area where they can continue their important pollination efforts safely.

Our “Bee Removal Contact List” page shows beekeepers in the Outer Banks area who will remove honey bee swarms and/or honey bees from inside structures (cut-outs) such as a home, shed or boat. Please feel free to contact any one you choose, and continue to utilize the list until you locate an available beekeeper.  Let the beekeeper know where the swarm is located, how long the bees have been there and the approximate size of the bee swarm. Also, please do not spray the bees or call an exterminator as beekeepers will not want to remove any honey bees that have been chemically sprayed.

Thank you for saving the honey bees!



2 thoughts on “Honey Bee Removal Information

  1. Kent RHODES

    My father asked if you have a mailing address? Our address is 9 Scott Road, Newport News, VA 23606. If you could let me know that would be great, thanks.


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